Rock Climbing & Kayaking Cát Bà | Vietnam

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One of my best days in Cat Ba was spent rock climbing, kayaking and cruising with Langur’s Adventures. There are two climbing outfits in Cat Ba; Langur’s and Cat Ba Climbing. I went with Langur’s because it was cheaper and advertised a no-experience necessary climb, perfect for me! Apparently each company has exclusive areas only they are permitted to climb, so if you are more experienced than I am, check out the options to see what you’ll like. My full day, beginner level, morning rock climbing/ afternoon kayaking, with lunch included, was around $50.

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The day started out cruising the karsts until we reached a rocky private beach. There were 3 roped routes, one very easy and two still probably easy but with a harder start. The guides were absolutely wonderful, very helpful and supportive. I was so slow at first, afraid of falling. So, my guide told me to fall. He ordered me to fall and see what happened! So I did, and apart from a light scratch on one knee as I started to spin against the rock, I was completely fine. He created a monster. Much less afraid of falling, I was able to climb to the best of my ability.

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I learned a few first day lessons. First, it takes a lot of arm strength, much better to have strong arms and a low weight than be bottom heavy like me. Second, there’s no 100% right way, it all depends on your skill level and strength, and only personal experience helps you make the best decision about the next hand and footholds. Third, it hurts your hands! You’re putting a lot of your weight on rocky handholds, after all. Also, speed is of the essence: taking too long to decide where to go next tires out and cramps up your muscles, and your hands bruise and get sweaty. Lastly, it’s a bit addictive! The first thing I thought when I woke up the next morning was that I wished I could give that rock another go.

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After climbing we had lunch on the boat, then went kayaking. Lunch was good, typical for these kind of tours: fried tofu, spring rolls, grilled shrimp, white rice, $2 beers. Kayaking was in roughly the same area the day tours go to, but quieter lagoons. We also kayaked past a floating fishing village and through more open water. We spent a couple hours on the water, so it was both harder exercise and more time spent looking at things closely. We stopped at a floating restaurant for tea, and checked out their “lucky fish.” Unlike the other fish at the floating fish farms, a lucky fish is kept in its own area under the house and continuously fed for its natural life, as a sort of symbol of prosperity. So the lucky fish can be many years old and absolutely huge, as this one was!

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After kayaking we got back on the boat and headed back to the harbor. We spotted a couple Cat Ba langurs on the cliffs on the way back. It was a dreary day, but the scenery was still beautiful. I absolutely recommend spending a day this way!

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Cannon Fort, Cát Bà | Vietnam

A little hiking, a little history, and great views make for a great day out, and Cannon Fort fits the bill! I went during COVID times, so the little restaurant at the top was closed, but overflowing boxes and bins of empty beer bottles indicated the locals were still really enjoying the sunsets here, which are supposed to be the best on the island.

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Cannon Fort was maintained by the French in the early 20th century to defend the Haiphong harbor, and the two eponymous cannons there are both French from 1910. The structures and tunnels, however, were built by the Japanese during WW2, when they overran Vietnam. Later it was taken back by the Vietnamese, taken back by the French, taken back by the Vietnamese, and actually stayed in use throughout the Vietnam War. Apparently 6 American planes were actually shot down from here, and there’s still an active military base and airport you will get shooed away from as you walk up the hill beyond the entrance.

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The uphill walk from Cat Ba town only takes perhaps half an hour or 40 minutes, but it’s steep enough to be a real workout. Sometimes there’s a guy at the gatehouse who charges each person 30,000; sometimes the gate is just open. There’s a place to park a motorbike. Once there, exploring takes an hour or hour and a half max; it’s a closed circuit with absolutely no chance of getting lost.

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I recommend stopping by Casa Bonita afterwards for food and drinks; it’s on the way if you’re walking from Cat Ba town, and one of my favorite restaurants on the island.

Cát Bà National Park: Hiking the Peak, Trung Trang Cave & Hospital Cave| Vietnam

If you are in the mood for nature and light exercise, a day at Cat Ba National Park is great! It’s an easy ride on a motorbike, which you can rent for less than $10/day. I don’t feel confident on a motorbike and Grab doesn’t work on Cat Ba, so I walked down to the taxi stand on the main strip and struck a deal with a cab driver to chauffeur me to the park and caves for the day then bring me back. I don’t remember exactly but believe I paid around $40. If you really want a workout you can walk from Cat Ba Town, but it would take around 3 hours.

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Right inside the entrance to the park is a really nice homestay with a restaurant, so if you want a coconut coffee to get you going or need to eat lunch, it’s convenient and the food is good. With a 9 or 9:30 start, I was easily able to have a coffee at the homestay, hike the peak, eat a relaxing lunch, visit both Trung Trang and Hospital Caves, and be back in Cat Ba town by late afternoon.

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For a nature reserve there’s not much flora or fauna in the park. Despite its World Heritage Site status, security has been lax enough to allow poaching, to the point where endangered species like the Cat Ba langur are on the brink of extinction. However, if you just want to breathe fresh air and hike in nature, the trail to the highest point on the island is really short, taking just an hour or so, and pretty easy too: it’s 90% steps and 10% scrambling when you get to the top. The views are beautiful and it’s high enough to get that vertiginous feeling!

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There’s an alternate difficult hike from the park entrance to Viet Hai village nearer the east coast of the island. This hike requires some trekking skill and serious endurance; it takes 8 to 12 hours. It’s not marked on the park map, but can be arranged in advance with a guide.

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Trung Trang cave is actually the name for a system of 150 connected caves, where different stalagmites and stalactites grow, and some ancient human remains have been found. Of course, the section tourists can access is much smaller, but still very interesting looking. The entrance is a quick walk down the road from the park entrance.

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Hospital cave was built with Chinese aid during the Vietnam war; it’s a three story concrete building with emergency exits, freshwater access, and air shafts, all built within a preexisting cave system. It was in continuous use for around 12 years, serving both as a hospital and safe house for VC leaders. It’s sparsely decorated with mannequins of soldiers, but that wasn’t the strangest thing I saw here . . . It seems they rent out the third floor for parties and events?!

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Again, Hospital Cave is just a minute’s walk down the main road. I wouldn’t want to get married there, but I did really enjoy the day!

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Phu Quốc Cuisine | Vietnam

Phu Quoc has such amazing food! I love seafood, so trying all the local cuisine was really a joy for me. I tried to rank them from most to least local, and rare to common. Phu Quoc has many indigenous species, in addition to more common species that would be exotic anywhere else, not to mention local styles of cooking. So, ordering them wasn’t an easy task! If you visit Phu Quoc, definitely budget for restaurants. If you are only on the island for a short time, the hands down best restaurant is Nhà Hàng Hải Sản Xin Chào at 66 Đường Trần Hưng Đạo, TT. Dương Đông, Phú Quốc.

And here’s a link to my google map of everywhere worth going on the island, including restaurants: Genevieve Fields' Phu Quoc


1. Ghẹ Hàm Ninh (Flower Crab)

Ham Ninh’s indigenous crabs, usually called flower crabs but sometimes guard crabs (a direct translation from their name in Vietnamese), are known for being particularly sweet; it’s best to choose medium sized crabs as they tend to be sweeter than larger crabs.

While I adore lobster and shrimp, I’ve never been much for crab because they’re so much work and mess for such little meat! I prefer soft shell crabs, and crabcakes. Though the Ham Ninh crab is tasty, I didn’t find its flavor special, and it was certainly nothing different enough to be “worth” the table work.

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2. Canh Nấm Tràm (Boletus Mushroom Soup)

These particular mushrooms only bloom on paperbark trees in the island’s primary forest after early spring (March, April) rains. So, despite their bitter taste, their rarity makes them an expensive seasonal item. They are always cooked in a bland seafood soup with shrimp and squid. Again, I’m very pleased to have tried this local specialty but wouldn’t go out of my way for it.

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3. Tôm Mũ Ni (Slipper Lobster)

Slipper lobster is yet another species indigenous to the island, and the taste and texture is sort of halfway between shrimp and lobster. In my opinion, giant shrimp are more satisfying when simply dressed and grilled, and the flavor and size of Western lobsters is far superior. However, if you’re craving more of a lobster flavor and don’t have the budget for true lobster, these are a reasonable choice. For $20 you can have 4 or 5 slipper lobsters grilled.

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4. Còi Biên Mai (Horn Scallop Sinew)

Rare anywhere else, horn scallop sinews are cheap and bountiful on Phu Quoc. Though they’re called scallops, they’re actually the sinew connecting the scallop to its shell. The meat of these big triangular scallops just doesn’t taste very good, so the sinews are what’s grilled and eaten. They can be purchased for $2-3/skewer at the night market, or at beach bars frequented by locals. I love scallops and I loved these! They taste like scallops, perhaps less strong; I didn’t notice any particularly novel flavor and they could shine in many preparations. I would absolutely eat these again.

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5. ốc Giác (Baler Snail)

Baler snails are giant; the meat alone is typically as large as a man’s fist. Due to their size, they have to be prepared carefully in order to not go rubbery. One of the more popular and successful preparations is thinly sliced and sautéed with onions and banana leaves. Some people prefer them grilled or boiled, and also eat the roe. For me, these were just OK. The flavor was mild, sort of mushroomy, fine but I would not seek it out again.

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6. Bào Ngư (Abalone)

I’ve always thought of abalone as a shell, ideal for buttons or small household objects. I never considered eating them! They are really tasty, with a more delicate taste than clams or mussels, subtly smoky, closer to oysters but not as vinegar. The beautiful shells remaining on the dish at the end of the meal is a bonus. I would definitely order these again if I saw them on a menu.

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7. Mực (Fried Squid)

I have never liked calamari, but was promised the squid here was super fresh and tender. It did not disappoint! If I go back I will try to have the egg squid, a seasonal specialty.

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8. Gỏi Cá Trích (Raw Herring Salad)

Raw herring salad is possibly the island’s best known recipe, and the one I felt most apprehensive about trying. I needn’t have! Tossed with shredded coconut and wrapped with pineapple, rice noodles, green papaya, carrots, lettuce, mint and peanuts, then dipped in a slightly sweet sauce, it’s incredibly refreshing. It’s perfect for lunch on a warm day.

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9. Bún Quậy (Noodle Soup with Shrimp Cakes and Squid)

This dish has been an island breakfast favorite for around 100 years. The base is white rice noodles with bland seafood broth; the deluxe version includes shrimp cakes, fish cakes, and a boiled squid for 55,000 dong, though you can order it without the squid or with just one type of cake if you prefer. The gimmick here is that you make your own sauce with soup powder, chili, msg, sugar and a squeezed kumquat, and add to your soup to taste.

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10. Canh Chua Cá Bớp (Sweet and Sour Cobia Soup)

Cobia is the most popular fish on the island. It reminds me a bit of swordfish. I don’t love it, and this soup base is pretty straightforward. Meh!

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11. Vỏ ốc (Conch)

One of my favorite meals of all time was in Key West over 20 years ago now, the conch at Café des Artistes. I don’t remember much about the preparation, only that it was the first time I’d tried conch, and it was absolutely delicious! Obviously a beach joint in semi-rural Vietnam is not going to share much with a truly fine French restaurant, but I was still really surprised by how little I enjoyed the conch here. It was inedibly rubbery. Is conch typically that way, or did they ruin it?

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12. Nhum Biển (Sea Urchin)

Sea urchins have a rich, almost beefy taste that I love. They’re typically just grilled over charcoal with a bit of onions, oil and peanuts, though I’ve also had them with an egg fried in (an unfortunate flavor masking preparation that is used for shellfish with alarming frequency in Vietnam). There is usually a small and large size on offer, and the larger ones are meatier and have a stronger taste, which I prefer.

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13. ốc Nhảy (Jumping Snail)

My pictures disguise how small these snails are! You have to pick out the meat with a safety pin, paperclip, toothpick, sharpened old chicken bone, or the like. I love eating snails, but snails this small are hard work! This type of snail is considered beer food in Vietnam and is available cheaply in the market, at roadside stands, and pretty much any restaurant. They’re typically boiled before eating. Not worth it for me, but a must try if you want to eat like the locals.

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14. Bánh Canh Ca Thu (Mackerel Fish Cake Soup)

Banh canh is an ubiquitous style of Vietnamese soup with tapioca flour noodles or half rice/half tapioca flour noodles. All coastal areas will offer this soup with fish broth, and what goes in the bowl depends on the restaurant: fish balls, fish cakes, fried fish cakes, chunks of fresh fish, fried fish filets, a combo of fish cakes and pork or pork sausage, etc. This is a common lunch or dinner food, and typically costs 40,000 dong ($1.75) or less.What makes it famously good on Phu Quoc is the quality of the fish; not only can you get deluxe versions with crab or tuna, but even the cheap versions made with bits of miscellaneous fish and fish balls are relatively good. If you don’t have money to spend, you’re in a rush, or you’re looking for a homemade meal a little bit too late at night, this is a good choice.

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And on my list for next time:

Tiết Canh Cua (Crab Blood Pudding)

Hải Sâm (Sea Cucumber)

Ca Thu (Grilled Mackerel)

ốc Gai (Barbed Snails)

Bánh tét mật cật Phú Quốc (Phú Quốc New Year’s Cake)

Mực Trứng (Egg Squid)

Bún Kèn (Ken Noodles)

The Hội An Countryside: Crafts and Coconut Boats | Vietnam

One fun day trip in Hoi An is Heaven & Earth’s Countryside bike tour with Coconut Boat ride. It costs about $40, and lasts from 8am to 3pm. If you skip the boat ride, it’s $10 cheaper.

I’m a chubby almost-40 who’s spent maybe 3 days on a bike in the past 20 years, and my guide could not have been more understanding or helpful. We walked the bikes or took breaks when I felt tired, she brought and bought me sufficient water, etc. It was around 8 miles and mostly flat; the challenge for me wasn’t so much aerobic as feeling I was battling intense heat, blistering sun, and dehydration . . . and it was only March! A good (alcohol free) night’s sleep prior, baseball cap (not a non la that will catch the wind, fall backwards and/or choke), airy clothing (not UV protective Lycra, what was I thinking?), sneakers (not flip flops, if you have any desire to save your pedicure) and a thick sunscreen (hey, at least I got one thing right) are absolute musts!

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The first place we visited was a woodworking village. There were many sculptors working small pieces like statues of Buddhist deities, and others making furniture to order. The pieces made from sandalwood smell amazing! The other job here is boatbuilding. A large but simple wooden boat for ferrying tourists or fishing costs around $3000, and more than half of that is the cost of lumber. Apparently the margins are slim enough that young people aren’t willing to learn the trade.

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The second place we went was a rice wine distillery. It’s a one man operation and all sales are local; there’s not enough profit in it to wholesale to restaurants. Traditional medicinal wines can be made to order; I saw a giant centipede wine (intended to alleviate back and muscle pain), a king cobra wine (aphrodisiac), and an herbal infused wine for menstrual cramps. Wine is really a misnomer for this stuff, which is always over 30% and usually more than 50% alcohol. Maybe that’s why my guide swore up and down the period wine really works . . .

The sideline at the distillery is pork! The leftover fermented rice is fed to pigs.

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The third place we visited was a place where a local lady makes palm frond mats. The mats take her 2-4 days to make, depending on how complicated they are. Most are simple wide stripes but special orders can be difficult. She typically works with another woman, but COVID has slowed down their local economy too, with far fewer orders. The mats are typically used on wooden beds and on the floor as ‘tables’; in rural Vietnam the dining table and chairs are only for the ancestors, holidays, and highly esteemed guests, normal people eat on a mat on the floor. I never really noticed this particular type of mat before, but now that I’m aware of them, I see them everywhere: just inside people’s homes, draped across tables, hung on fences to dry.

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The last place we visited was a large traditional house where 4 generations lived together. The current house is actually a 1990s replica of the original 200+ year old house, destroyed by the French during the war in the ‘50s. Originally a family of wealthy landlords, today the family is no richer than anyone else post war and post communism. They just really wanted their house back! The grandpa saved his whole working life to build it back properly, but the influx of tourists after embargoes were lifted in the ‘90s was what helped him finally do it, by selling traditional home cooked lunches to all the tour groups. He still has his war paraphernalia sitting around: his helmet, a canteen, vases made of bronze from French cannons.

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Last but not least was a visit with a lovely old woman who makes coconut boats. I was surprised to find they are woven flat, not around molds. They are waterproofed with cow dung and tree sap, and only sometimes finished with paint or a commercial varnish. One steers a coconut boat by leaning to one side, which becomes your prow, and rowing small infinity sign shapes straight ahead with a practically upright oar. I was shocked at how quickly these move!

Apparently if you go on a weekend or at busy times (10-12 or 2-4) the competing boat tour guides get wild with pumping dance music, karaoke and crazy tricks. I went at lunchtime when they were napping on the water, and it was sufficiently peaceful (though it remains Vietnam, there’s still faint EDM and construction noise coming from somewhere).

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If you want to do the coconut boat ride separately, just search for ‘coconut boat’ or ‘basket boat’ on google maps and you’ll find a ton of places all along the same strip of the river. They’ll ask 250,000 dong for the ride but you can bargain down to 150,000 or even 100,000.

A Grab ride out there is only $3, but good luck getting one back, they don’t seem to come to this neighborhood! I had to walk until I came across a dude having lunch who happened to be a cab driver for a hotel; he drove me back in his minivan and I paid 100,000 dong cash.

All in all, it was a fantastic scenic day and I highly recommend it!

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Cat Ba: The Classic 1 Day Boat Tour | Vietnam

The classic Full Day Boat Tour from Cat Ba to Monkey Island is one of the best experiences I had in Vietnam! I went twice and would do the exact same tour a third time, that’s how fun it was. No matter which company you use, the tour is exactly the same; Lan Ha and Ha Long bays are national parks/UNESCO sites, so entry and exit times are strictly controlled. For the same reason, the prices are ultra competitive, between $15 and $30 per person (depending on company and season). You can buy them on tripadvisor, klook, or in cash the day before (or even the morning of).

I went with L’s Travels, which I was happy with. A friend did Captain Jack’s twice and highly recommended them. L is more chill and Captain Jack is more of a party boat. If you want to get a feel for the vibes of different companies, check out their reviews on TripAdvisor. All the companies use the same type of boat and serve the same basic lunch (rice, tofu and tomato, morning glory, scrambled eggs).

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The first hour or so is spent just cruising the bay. As you leave the port, you sail through a fishing village, and see how fisherman literally live on the water, with floating houses, a floating market, bar/restaurant, etc. Once you get past the village and into more open water, the views are just incredible. They’re still beautiful on a cloudy day, but it’s worth it to wait for a beautiful day!

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The next big activity is kayaking. There’s a central kayak station that all the tour companies visit at slightly staggered times. The lagoons are grand and scenic, and didn’t feel crowded even with lots of people on the water. The water is totally calm, zero skill or strength is required. There are caves dripping with stalactites to row through, and areas shallow enough that you could wade in. A couple local fishermen did, to retrieve their shellfish baskets.

Kayaking these lagoons is the only time I saw the elusive, critically endangered Cat Ba langur up close. There are only 70 or 80 of these indigenous, large white headed monkeys left. I was incredibly lucky; some tour guides go a whole season without seeing one. The langur I saw was not at all shy, and seemed interested in watching us!

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The third stop of the day is a lovely secluded beach for swimming. As a weak swimmer I was worried, but you don’t have to go very far before the water is so shallow you can stand up. There are also life jackets available.

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The last stop of the day is the appropriately named Monkey Island; the minute you get off the boat there are so many monkeys, who love to pose for pictures and beg for snacks. The little island restaurant may serve real food and drinks; all anyone seemed to buy was beer, bottled water, Oreos and potato chips to give the monkeys.

There’s a tough scramble to the top of Monkey Island, where the views are beautiful. If, like me, you don’t know what a scramble is, it’s halfway between a rock climb and a hike. It requires sneakers or hiking sandals, there are sections that are vertical, and you do take the risk of hurting yourself badly should you misstep. This is craggy rock, not stairs or dirt. Most reasonably fit youngish people can get all the way to the top, but it is a bit scary.

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There’s plenty of time for both scrambling to the top of Monkey Island and sunbathing or swimming, so don’t worry about choosing.

Finally, the trip back to the harbor has the same magical views, and you get on land and ferried back to the office around 4:00 or 4:30. Local restaurant owners line up outside and hand out coupons for free drinks or discounts at their places, so most people grab a free beer with their new acquaintances from the boat.

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I only wish the tour ended after sunset; I’d love to experience a sunset among those karsts. I can’t recommend the classic boat tour highly enough; I think it’s a fantastic deal for a fantastic day.

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John’s Tours, Phu Quốc | Vietnam

Every tourist city in Vietnam seems to have an ubiquitous day tour, the low price/greatest hits combo that’s sold by every agency and hotel, but serviced by only one or two companies.

In Phu Quốc, that tour is the 4 island boat trip by John’s Tours, best with the Aquatopia water park/cable car upgrade, and often combined with evening squid fishing (and let me be super clear, I have not been compensated by them in any way):  https://phuquoctrip.com/daily-boat-trips

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You can do the cable car and Aquatopia water park by yourself, of course, but I found that they were less expensive when combined with the tour due to the included hotel transfers. There was also more than enough time at the water park to do 5 or 6 of the big slides and a trip around the lazy river.

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You can choose between tour boat and speedboat; I much prefer the tour boat! The islands are all pretty much the same anyway: OK beaches with seafood restaurants, coconut stands, and maybe a cocktail bar, plus weirdly contrived instagram stations and sun loungers costing $1-2 whether or not you buy a drink. Less than a month later, I did not even remember how many islands there were, much less any differences between them.

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I appreciated the dedication to keeping me consistently buzzed, loved the packs of beach dogs, and was very amused by the trend among Vietnamese couples and families to wear matching tropical print ensembles for their photo shoots. That said, none of this is worth rushing towards in a cramped speedboat! The chill experience of sunbathing and napping and having lunch on the slow boat is far superior.

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Lunch is included on the slow boat, and it’s pretty good: shrimp, fried tofu, fish soup, veggies and rice. Pretty early in the morning they offer up a variety of shellfish you can have barbecued and served with your lunch (for an additional cost). I didn’t order anything because it was too early in the morning, and the thought of seafood made me feel a bit nauseous. I regretted it! The prices were fair and the selection was the freshest, most exotic stuff, including a variety of bigger snails that are hard to find on local menus, sea urchins, and horn scallops.

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Snorkeling was for maybe 30 or 40 minutes between two of the islands. A lot of the coral was bleached and there weren’t a ton of fish; visibility was OK but it wasn’t very colorful! However, I love swimming and snorkeling so for me it was a nice part of the trip.  

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I’m no connoisseur of amusement parks or water parks, I find them a bit scary to be honest! There were definitely sufficiently frightening water slides for adults and big enough safe play zones for kids. I found myself *considering* a couple of the more precipitous water slides. I’m working on recognizing my feelings of anxiety and converting them to feelings of excitement, but got stuck picturing my lovely teeth cracking out of my mouth in some catastrophic accident. To be clear, I don’t think this is likely at all! Everything seemed very new, safe, and well-maintained . . . I’m just a work in progress!

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The cable car was actually the most expensive and anticlimactic part of the trip. I think the cable car ticket alone is $20 or more. It was lovely, I guess I just enjoy being on the water more. There’s also nothing to do at either station (just overpriced souvenir shops), and you can get much better footage of the islands with a drone.

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The evening squid fishing, available as a separate tour or as an add-on for $15, was a terrible disappointment. It was just another couple hours on the tour boat, not far offshore, with insufficient lighting to attract squid, and hand reels! My grandfather taught me how to fish with a pole as a 6 year old, I had never even touched a hand reel before. Needless to say, no one caught anything and there were some really disappointed dudes there. Dinner was also pretty terrible shrimp congee with very little shrimp. I can't recommend it!

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All in all though, I had an excellent time and would do the same tour again.  To state the obvious, don’t do it on a rainy day!

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Hội An Cuisine and Where to Eat It, According to Locals | Vietnam

Lastly, I MUST mention 2 truly outstanding “Western” restaurants . . .

BEST Italian:

Good Morning Vietnam

I spent two months straight in Hội An, and visited a few times over the course of 7 months. It was enough time to get to know the ladies I was staying with, and I was delighted to find that not only were they Hội An born and bred, they are also intrepid travelers themselves, and one trained as a chef in Saigon! I simply could not have been luckier in sourcing local restaurant recommendations.

I requested restaurants that are old and highly regarded, places popular with locals, their personal favorites, and (most importantly) true Vietnamese cuisine with strong emphasis on local specialities.


BEST ONE STOP SHOP:

Mót Hội An

150 Trần Phú, Old Town

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The local food at this tiny restaurant is excellent and cheap, and the place is always packed. Their menu has all of Hoi An’s greatest hits: bánh mì, cao lầu, thịt nướng, cơm gà, bánh vạc bông hồng trắng, hoành thánh chiên, and mì quảng are all on the menu; plus phờ, spring rolls, and wonton soup.

Their popularity, however, stems from the traditional Chinese medicinal drink sold here for just 12,000 dong. Sometimes called lemonade, sometimes tea, the bare bones ingredients for chanh sả (which literally translates as lemongrass lime) are lime, lemongrass, cinnamon, ginger and honey. At Mót they incorporate several additional ingredients according to an old family recipe, originally formulated to soothe digestive ailments. It’s incredibly refreshing and delicious!

This restaurant is also smack in the middle of the Old Town, the most centrally located of any on this list. If I only had one day in Hoi An, I would just come here and order one of everything!


BEST Bánh Mì:

Bánh Mì Phượng

2b Phan Chu Trinh, old town

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Obviously, bánh mì is an ubiquitous food that didn’t originate in Hội An. Equally obviously, it tends to be a street food rather than a restaurant food. Yet, foodies seem to agree the best bánh mi in the country comes from two shops here, this being the more famous.

The back of their bags quote the late, great Anthony Bourdain as saying: “The world’s best delicious bread brand” . . . which he obviously didn’t, being a native English speaker. I’m sure whatever he did say was positive though, because the bánh mì here is fantastic, and the scene aired on his Travel Channel show. I probably saw it and forgot it myself, years before I ever imagined coming to Vietnam.

I always order the vegetarian (chay) because it’s so damn delicious: tofu marinated in local soy sauce (Vietnamese soy sauce is sweet, yellow/brown and thick, not at all like the Japanese sort imported into the US) then lightly fried; avocado slices; peanut pâté, sautéed eggplant; a stalk or two of rocket; a leaf or two of lettuce; chili sauce; and chili jam; all on a perfect Việt baguette (crispy but not tooth-cracking like its Parisian ancestor).

Lunch here is a truly class-free society moment: jetsetters, schoolboys, street cleaners, and office ladies all queue up. They have a seating area, but sometimes the owner’s husband is the only one there, chainsmoking and people watching, so I tend to order through Grab.


ALSO THE BEST Bánh Mì:

Madam Khánh

115 Trần Cao Vân, old townish

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Foodies are always pitting Phượng and the Madam against each other in some sort of perpetual bread battle. How dare they! They are both superb, though it appears the Madam’s daughter does the cooking these days. My personal favorite bánh mì of all time is Madam Khánh’s bánh mì trứng chiên. Pâté, slightly runny fried eggs, chili sauce and cucumber (on another great baguette) make this a breakfast favorite. I love it with their fresh blueberry juice.

The vibes in the seating area are way less hectic than at Phượng’s; it’s farther away from the tourist area, so there are more motorbike pickups than seated customers. Around 1pm is nap time and the lights go out, but you are welcome to sleep sitting up across two chairs with the fam if you need more time to digest.


DON’T BOTHER:

Bale Well

45 Ngõ 51 Trần Hưng Đạo, old townish

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Every other restaurant on this street is called Bá Lễ Well something or other, referring to the ancient well behind Bá Lễ’s house. Though there are 80+ wells in Hội An, this particular well is famous for a few reasons. First, it is truly ancient, constructed by the Champa in the 10th century. Also, it’s never run dry, and so has been the go-to well for locals, soldiers and sailors for hundreds of years; when you drink a cup of well water, you are presumably tasting a bit of history. Lastly, it’s mineral richness (particularly aluminum) gives the water a slightly sweet taste that is considered the make or break ingredient for the local specialty, cao lầu.

Bá Lễ is 90 odd years old, but still kicking around and locally famous. He maintains the well and that’s why it’s named after him. Another local elder, Nguyễn Dương, has delivered the well water to local restaurants and households since 1975, so people my age grew up on this well water. I’ve had tasteless cao lầu and very tasty cao lầu, and now I wonder if the well water really did make the difference!

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At any rate, this particular restaurant is not known for its cao lầu, but for the local styles of bánh xèo and thịt nướng. Both are foods that are served nationally, but with distinct regional differences, so these are the central coast versions. I believe this place is popular because they have a set menu with displayed prices, provide all the sauce and veggie extras, and demonstrate to foreigners how to assemble the rolls properly. It was honestly nothing to write home about. I’ve had better bánh xèo from street vendors and found the thịt nướng slightly revolting, but that could be because I’m already not a pork person, and this I would barely call pork, it was more like strips of burnt pork fat.

For reference, bánh xèo are fermented rice pancakes colored yellow with turmeric. The Hội An version is relatively small; you get 3-4 pancakes where in Saigon you’d have the same amount of food in one giant pancake. The fillings also vary regionally and by taste; here there’s typically a lot of bean sprouts, a small square of bacon and a whole (shell, legs, and tail still on) grilled shrimp in each pancake. You can eat it as is, or open it up and pile on fresh and pickled veggies (usually lettuce, mint, cabbage, papaya, carrots, cassava, cucumbers), chili jam, fish sauce, mint, even peanuts, and re-roll in rice paper. Bale Well didn’t include the bacon, so despite all the fresh veg it was relatively bland, lacking the salty/sweet contrast of its competitors. It was also a bit spongy inside, not fried crispy at all, which again takes something away from the best versions of bánh xèo I’ve had.

Thịt nướng just means pork meat, and refers to grilled fatty pork. It’s assembled in much the same way, rolled in lettuce leaves and rice paper wrappers, having been dressed with veg and sauce. It’s the sibling of bún thịt nướng, which is the same thing over white rice vermicelli-like noodles, and the cousin of bún chả, the Hanoian iteration with minced pork meatballs and a soup base. Just the smell of this on people can make me feel nauseous, so for me it was a YOLO fail. Your mileage may vary!


BEST Bánh Xèo & Thịt Nướng:

Sông Hoài

An Hội island

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There are only four items on the menu here; all dishes are 35,000 dong and all are meant to be shared. I found the bánh xèo and thịt nướng here to be far superior. The bánh xèo was still a bit oily for my taste, but the least greasy out of all the places I tried. They also used the highest quality pork of any place so far, alternating between squares of melted bacon type cuts and tender, soft strips. The thịt nướng here was likewise the best I’ve eaten for the same reason: the pork was simply higher quality and cooked with more care, and therefore tastier. There’s also an incredibly cute bulldog here, whose presence is guaranteed to cheer you up!


BEST Mì Quảng:

Mì Quảng Bích

272 Hùng Vương, outskirts

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Mì Quảng is named for Quảng Nam province, so it’s a true local specialty (as opposed to a local take on a common food). Mì Quảng is composed of thick rice noodles in a savory broth made with garlic, shallots, black pepper, fish sauce and turmeric, in addition to the local herb infusion found in all Việt noodle soups.

The added protein varies, but in Hội An, if no request is made, you can expect thinly sliced pork or whole shrimp, topped with green onion and peanuts. A deluxe version will have both, and/or hard boiled quail eggs. Some places allow special orders for chicken, but it’s not really the best in this dish. As with all other Việt noodle soups, mint, lettuce, bean sprouts, limes, chilis, and fish sauce are served on the side and can be added to taste. It’s also served with bánh tráng mè (toasted sesame rice crackers) that you can break up and add for crunch. Growing up with Stella D’Oro breadsticks, that toasted sesame taste resonates with me!

Mì Quảng Bích’s recipe is absolutely delicious. Her place is very local yokel, the kind of place where you get the impression the young kids and ancient ladies staring at you may never have seen a foreigner up close and personal before. From the center of the old town, it’s a 40-50 minute walk along the river; it’s nice on a temperate day but I had trouble getting a Grab to drive me back. She only serves two dishes, mì quảng and cao lầu, and her mì quảng has shrimp, thinly sliced roasted pork and quail eggs, and tastes very fresh and slightly spicy. It’s super busy at breakfast and lunchtime, and I would happily go back any time I’m out that way.


I WON’T BE BACK:

Mì Quảng Ông Hai

6A Trương Minh Lượng, old town

Locals and bloggers alike agree that Mì Quảng Ông Hai is the place in Hội An to have this dish. Unfortunately, I was refused service there. I’d like to believe it was a terrible misunderstanding, but it seemed to be xenophobia; they had recent reviews posted from Vietnamese people, and people eating outside, but turned me away one Wednesday night. I thought I just got there too late . . . a lot of mom and pop shops around here close at 8. So I went back early Friday evening, and again there looked to be people eating outside, and again I was told they were closed. I asked if they’d be open on Monday and was told no, they’re closed “because of coronavirus.” So . . . they’re open for Vietnamese people but closed to me, “because of coronavirus.”

To be clear, borders closed March 22nd and I was trying to eat on November 17th. One would assume I live here, not that I somehow illegally entered the country within the past nine months and have been spreading deadly, yet unreported disease ever since. No one in Vietnam has tested positive since September, and the last positive case was community transmission between Vietnamese people. The only people allowed in the country are Vietnamese nationals, so the only people importing coronavirus into the country are Vietnamese nationals. Brutal question: do they really think I’ll make them sick, because they are old/uninformed/don’t understand . . . or have they always loved tourism money while still resenting tourists, or white people, or Americans, or whatever I look like to them, and this is their rare opportunity to say no to someone like me, with fewer of us around lately?

More importantly, is their food worth all that? I’LL NEVER KNOW BECAUSE I WON’T BE BACK.


BEST Hến Trộn with Bánh Đập
. . . BUT DON’T SAY I DIDN’T WARN YOU:

Quán Ăn Bến Tre

Xuyên Trung, Cẩm Nam island

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This place is known for three things: hến trộn, bánh đập, and scamming tourists. Yet it remains the go-to place, frequented by locals because it’s a third generation business that’s been serving the island’s signature dish for over 50 years. There are many google reviews mentioning the scam: first the proprietress hands you a professionally printed English menu where the price is double the prices on the Vietnamese sign; later, when she presents you the bill, it’s again somehow more than you were expecting. I believe I paid $12 for the clams, smashing rice paper and a single beer, which by local standards is absolutely ludicrous. I don’t always mind being scammed; for example,15,000 dong (65 cents) doesn’t matter much to me, but can really help out a street fruit seller..

This lady, on the other hand, has clearly inherited and expanded a longstanding family business, and had the audacity to debate me on Trump (her for and me against, obviously). I explained I disliked him for many reasons, but primarily the diabolical wealth transfer executed during the pandemic. FYI, the Fed printed exponentially more money than ever before in history, so billionaires could double and triple their net worths while the average American received a single $1200 check many months into the crisis, or never received one at all, because this type of relief is only available to people with permanent addresses and bank accounts in good standing, who also filed their taxes properly in 2019 . . . in other words, cruelly excluding those who need help the most.

This lady posited that according to her sister in Texas, the US government was sending weekly relief checks. I explained that only if you already qualified for unemployment payments, you got an extra $600 per week for a few months, but that ended 5 months ago. Also, due to lockdowns and backlogs at already poorly run state agencies, many people were unfairly denied, or made to wait for weeks or months for their first payment, or sent debit cards to old addresses and just never got paid. When filing my 2020 taxes I was informed by New York State that I had received relief funds that must be declared, when I never received a cent. And again, this method excludes the neediest people in the country, those who didn’t qualify for unemployment and were already struggling before the pandemic.

This is where the conversation went left, with the restaurant owner repeatedly insisting her sister told her it’s $1200 every month and they’re still getting it thanks to Trump. We went back and forth several times, with me responding that it’s just not the case (thinking that perhaps she didn’t understand me due to the language barrier, or that she had misunderstood her sister), and her suggesting I was either ignorant because I was not physically present in the US, or just not believing Trump was doing something good because I didn’t like him.

And this was all before I had touched the food! I found myself slightly hungry, more than a little annoyed, and wondering: why is she asking me questions when she clearly has answers she likes? Why does she need to “win” a casual chat with an American, also a paying customer, about America? Does Trump pay her bills as well as her sister’s? But of course, an argumentative scammer with no time for facts would like Trump.

Back to the food! Hến trộn is tiny river clams sautéed with mint, onion, peanuts, and perhaps some spices or fish sauce. It’s served with bánh đập, which is a super thin three layer rice cake: the outer layers are crisp, but the inner layer is left soft and translucent. You crack a stack of it into pieces with your palm before dipping it into an ultra concentrated local fish sauce, and scooping up the clams with it. The fish sauce is strong enough that it’s served to foreigners with soy sauce to dilute as necessary, because many people can’t stomach ít.

The rice crackers were fun, the fish sauce really was a bit putrid, and the clams were just OK. To be clear, I love clams. As a partially Sicilian New Yorker, clams are in my comfort zone: straight out of the shell in their own liquor; raw with a dab of ketchup; spaghetti alle vongole, oregenata at restaurants . . . we even had Clamato juice in the fridge growing up (which sounds gross until you learn anchovy paste exists). Maybe I need to try a different restaurant, maybe I just prefer my own way over the Vietnamese version, same as snails. I thought they could use a little garlic ;)


BEST Cao Lầu:

Trung Bắc Restaurant

87 Trần Phú, old town

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Cao lầu is Hội An‘s most iconic dish, and making it is quite involved. The water used to make the noodles must come from the Bá Lễ well; those noodles are then soaked in lye leached from the ashes of herbs grown on Cham Island. The complicated process of making the noodles gives them a slightly chewy texture, faintly smoky flavor, and yellow color. The typical topping is sliced char siu pork, bean sprouts, onions, lettuce, and various herbs, with just enough pork broth poured over top to wet the noodles, plus deep fried squares of the noodle dough.

This was unexpectedly delicious. We know I’m not a pork person and the first bite was hard for me, but this was melt-in-your mouth good. The noodles were delicious, the taste was simultaneously fresh, savory and warming. I truly enjoyed it. I also have no doubt that theirs is a wholly authentic version; the only people there were me and 4 really old local dudes taking a break from their card game on the stoop next door. We often hear the words subtle, fresh, and nuanced in reference to Vietnamese cuisine; when done poorly it’s painfully bland, but when done well, magic can happen, and this was it.


THE LITERAL ONE AND ONLY White Rose Dumpling (Bánh Vạc Bông Hồng Trắng)
& Wonton (Hoành Thánh Chiên) PLACE:

White Rose Restaurant
(Nhà Hàng Bông Hồng Trắng)

533 Đ. Hai Bà Trưng, old townish

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This restaurant only makes two dishes: bánh vạc bông hồng trắng and hoành thánh chiên.

Bánh vạc bông hồng trắng, or “white rose dumplings”, are more than a local dish, they are a recipe closely guarded by a single family that’s been manufacturing them for generations. They own this restaurant, and they supply all the other restaurants in town. So, no matter where you eat them, this is where they came from.

There are no roses in the dough; the name comes from their resembling a fully bloomed flower when cooked, and was supposedly bestowed by a French patron in the colonial era. The dough is prepared with water from the Bá Lễ well, and the filling is a proprietary shrimp paste. They also include a few with minced veggie filling for variety. Fried onions are sprinkled on top,and the dipping sauce is a bit sweet, made with lemon juice, sugar, chilis, and shrimp broth. These are subtle and delicious!

Hoành thánh chiên is often lumped into the “Hoi An pizza” category by bloggers, but it’s nothing like bánh tráng nướng. It’s actually the same white rose dumplings, but deep fried into wontons and topped with a sweetened ratatouille of tomatoes, oyster mushrooms, white onions, tiny bits of mango and grilled shrimp. In the restaurant it’s served opened faced and gets too soggy for my liking. I prefer to order it to go and put the ratatouille in a bowl, breaking up the wontons and dipping them in like chips.

Both dishes are simple and satisfying, as long as you don’t mind slightly sweet food.


BEST Cơm Gà:

Cơm Gà Bà Buội

22 Phan Chu Trinh, old towN

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The history of cơm gà is interesting: in the 17th and 18th centuries, Hội An was Vietnam’s largest trading port, and many Chinese (and a few Japanese) families moved to the town and province for business reasons. With them came their cuisine, and some of it stuck around. This dish hails from Hainan island, and uses their “white cutting” method for preparing chicken: first boiling it in herb and onion infused water, then shredding it and dressing it lightly in salt, pepper and lime juice. The rice is cooked in the resulting chicken broth, sometimes with garlic or shallots added. The meal is served with a small cup of the chicken broth, a small dish of shredded papaya and carrots, herbs on the side, and if requested, a small bowl of cooked innards.

With such a simple meal, the highest quality ingredients and the right blend of herbs is everything. Bad cơm gà is bland verging on inedible; great cơm gà is still quite boring in my opinion, but refreshing in its simplicity, the kind of food I would eat if I had a sick stomach and needed to cut sugar, spice and grease. That’s probably why Vietnamese people are usually thinner than Westerners, the mentality isn’t about seeing everyday food as an opportunity to overindulge, but as a tool to stay energized.

This restaurant has been the go-to place for the dish for over 50 years, and theirs is the best I had. They also serve corn milk and black sesame milk if you need an exotic hit of carbs.


ALSO THE BEST Cơm Gà:

Cơm Gà Bà Hồ

16 phan chu trinh, old town

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In business since 1969 (side note: wow what a tough year to hang out a shingle in Vietnam), this restaurant has their own well, and the cơm gà is cooked by a granny. Who could ask for more? It will never be my favorite dish (too boring) but the version served here is tasty and authentic. Of particularly good quality was the broth; it was incredibly familiar to me, tasting just like the chicken broth at old school Chinatown restaurants. It makes sense given the southern coastal Chinese diaspora of 200 years ago, and it was wonderful to discover that these dishes I’ve eaten literally across the world from each other are so true to the ancient original.


BEST Bánh Bèo:

Bánh Bèo Bà Mỹ

Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, old town

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Bánh bèo hails from slightly further north in Huế, but the two cities were closely entwined as long as Hội An was a primary port, bringing in luxury imports for consumption at the royal court. The dish consists of glutinous rice and tapioca flour shells, topped with with a bit of dried shrimp and onions, pork skin or sliced cinnamon sausage, and topped with a sweet nước mắm pha dipping sauce. This is more of a snack than a meal; it’s best shared with friends and washed down with iced tea. It’s a bit bland for me; I find myself filling the cups with the sweet dipping sauce. However, this restaurant has been serving them up for over 20 years, so if you’d like to try them, it’s a great choice.


BEST Bún Đậu Mắm Tôm:

Quán Dâu Bắc

71 Đào Duy Từ, old townish

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Bún đậu mắm tôm is not for everyone! The central flavor of the dish comes from extremely pungent fermented shrimp paste, served with Vietnamese type salad greens, sliced cucumber, fried tofu, fried and boiled pork belly, fried spam, and fried new rice cakes. If you can’t tell from the preponderance of fried elements, this is kind of a late-night-drinking-with-friends food. The dish originated in Hanoi, but this is the wildly popular central coast version.

Run by two ancient ladies and an English fluent daughter, a cadre of elderly local women hang out here in the daytime, and invited me to snack on the tiniest snails ever with them. Fun!

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Vinpearl Safari, Phú Quốc | Vietnam

VinPearl Safari Phú Quốc is wonderful! I wasn’t sure what the standards for a zoo would be like in Vietnam; I was concerned about dirty, small enclosures etc. and needn’t have been. VinPearl has two parks on the northeastern part of the island, this zoo and an amusement park, and you can buy either individual or combo tickets. I have no interest in amusement parks, so I didn’t buy the combo ticket; that said, the zoo takes up a full day so I recommend you buy individual tickets even if you plan on visiting both.

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The tickets aren’t cheap; they’re the equivalent of $25- $35 depending on season. During big holidays and school vacation periods, the tickets are both more expensive AND they force you to buy a ticket with a meal coupon. In low season, you can buy a no-food ticket and the price is a bit lower.

As you can probably guess, the food here isn’t good; the required meal included:

  • what my family used to call a ‘hockey puck’ of steak

  • one of those terrible little hot dog sausages so popular in Vietnam

  • a fried egg

  • a small handful of french fries

  • perhaps 2 slices each cucumber and tomato on the side

I much prefer to get the low season no-food ticket and just pay cash at a kiosk for a beer, ice cream, or ice coffee if I need a blood sugar boost. This is also my favorite option because it affords some quiet and privacy; the larger restaurants in the resort are clogged with families on group tours.

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I keep calling it a zoo because safari is a bit of a misnomer.

The ‘safari’ is a 10 or 15 minute bus ride where you do get closer to the animals, assuming you can manage a view past many screeching children held up to the windows by their equally loud parents, who also jostle each other constantly rushing back and forth from one side of the bus to the other. The good news is you can go on the ride for free as many times as you want; I recommend sitting or standing on the left side of the bus for the best views.

If you prefer a serene experience, you won’t miss anything by skipping the safari ride. The same animals are displayed (at a distance, of course) in the zoo section.

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Hàm Ninh Fishing Village, Phu Quốc | Vietnam

Hàm Ninh fishing village is on the east coast of Phu Quốc. True to its name, this is a ramshackle village where you can buy freshly caught live fish and shellfish in the market, or have it simply prepared at one of the many restaurants propped on jetties on the beach. There has been zero effort made to appeal to tourists, and no English is spoken. The pier is actually being demolished due to the local government’s concerns about overfishing and pollution.

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You can’t walk along the beach to go restaurant to restaurant, you have to have to walk the side streets parallel to the beach to find the entrances. Some of the restaurants have prices listed as ‘market price’, which (if they’re handing you a menu saying that in English) is bullshit. You will be charged a different, premium price to the locals, and be told that you have to order a high minimum weight, or that you have to order a high weight to get anything other than a plain boil. I was told at one place the minimum order to have slipper lobsters fried with chili was 4 kilos, if I wanted to buy less than that they would be served boiled with no condiments. Just, why? I obviously can’t eat almost 9 pounds of shellfish, can’t we find a middle ground?

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I recommend you find a place where the daily prices per kilo are clearly marked, and their weight minimum per type is one kilo. As a single person, many places will even agree to cook half a kilo each of different shellfish for you. For reference, that’s 3-4 large oysters, or 2-3 slipper lobsters. I was happy with the variety and freshness at Thuận Kiểu 2, but you can also check recent google reviews for other places. Even ordering the most exotic stuff, all you can eat, and a couple beers each, it’s really difficult to spend more than $30 per person at these places.

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It may seem obvious, but Western seafood basics are not available here. There is no melted butter, corn, or bread, for example. The norm here for seafood is chili sauce, lime and salt; you can order typical Vietnamese accompaniments like white rice and water spinach.

Also, the preparations are not particularly skilled or nuanced. One of my favorite meals of all time was the conch I had at Café des Artistes in Key West twenty years ago now . . . I still remember it, it was that good. The conch I had here was inedible rubber. Likewise, it is tiny slices of processed American cheese melted over these oysters, hardly Oysters Rockefeller! Most things here are just served plain, boiled or grilled; the standard ‘seasoned’ preparation is a bit of garlic oil, lemongrass and peanuts.

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Given the lack of sophisticated cooking, everything here is much more conveniently available at the night market. If you want to have a big variety for lunch, though, this is the spot. Likewise, if you are interested in trying all the local specialties in the shortest amount of time possible, this strip of restaurants is a great way to do it. I personally discovered a new love: sea urchins! They have a mellow, almost beefy taste. Highly recommend!